Romancing Udaipur: A Tale in Time

Cusped arch window

Nestled within the gentle embrace of the Aravalli hills, where the air is infused with the enchanting fragrance of jasmine and the distant calls of peacocks resonate, Udaipur stands as a testament to resilience, vision, and understated elegance—a city waiting to be explored and appreciated.

In 1559, in the aftermath of the Mughal destruction of Chittorgarh, Maharana Udai Singh II envisioned a brighter future for his people. Inspired by a hermit’s prophecy at the banks of Lake Pichola, he established a city that would embody the spirit of Mewar. Udaipur emerged not merely as a sanctuary, but as a powerful symbol of endurance. This city was designed not to erase the scars of conquest, but to thrive beyond them.

"In the hills of Aravalli, rose

a city from the cindering ashes

of the battle of Chittorgarh,

by a king who wandered

in pain and built this city

from battle's stain-named it

Udaipur, which time cannot replace..."

As you land in Udaipur and maneuver yourself through the streets, you can at once feel an idyllic character defining the city's current mood and anatomy. It still seems to hold on to the ancient courtly gestures that deftly describe any princely state(earlier).

You don't need to specifically go by my words, but choose to see the city through my lens.

The first thing that caught my attention was their architecture- the patterns of doors and windows of forts and old-fashioned houses, traces still discernible in certain city locales. The cusped arch(pic 1)- a hallmark of Rajput architecture- is prevalent in Udaipur's palaces, temples, and forts, enhancing their aesthetic merit.

As my eyes fell on exquisite, royal, and latticed Jharokhas(ornamental overhanging balconies or windows), my imaginative prowess unleashed into the marvellous world of kingly courtrooms and celebrations...I wish I could stand in one such jharokha, all decked up and veiled, looking stealthily at the regal processions on elephants and accompanied by beating drums and blaring brass trumpets.

Our hotel was a fabulous experience altogether. The view from our room was just "wow"- we could enjoy the hills, the lakes, and even saw a peahen in the garden. The garden was a breathtaking tapestry of vibrant colors, adorned with exquisite and rare plants and flowers that elevated its beauty to new heights. It truly was a scene that captured the imagination. The windows were designed keeping in mind the typical Rajasthani style of architecture. I felt nothing short of regal. The stay(3 days) was memorable in every sense.

Window view from the hotel room

We started with Saheliyon ki Bari, or the Garden of the Maidens, an enchanting oasis filled with vibrant greenery and soothing fountains. Created by the visionary Maharana Sangram Singh II, this exquisite retreat served as a serene escape for the women of his palace, allowing them to relax and revel in the peaceful embrace of nature's beauty. The white and pink bougainvillea overhanging the white walls took me to a whole realm of deja vu, of time immemorial, when time stops and you only inhale and seep into the beauty of the moment.

Saheliyon ki Bari

Cascading bougainvillea

When you step into the premises of the Sajjangarh fort, you find yourself lost in the grandeur of a bygone era- a fort which served as a monsoon retreat and hunting lodge for the royals of Udaipur. To get to the palace at the top, you need to rent a cab that plies to and fro to take the visitors to the fort. The ascent to the summit is nothing short of exhilarating, much like savoring a thrilling ride through the mountains. Once you reach your destination, you get a panoramic view of the entire city- lakes, vegetation, hills, the clear blue sky, clouds, and houses. A soft, serene wind blows as you capture a beautiful photo, with your hair sweeping across your face while you try to push it away. Imagine a world where old staircases beckon you to explore stunning gardens, charming verandahs, and expansive rooms filled with light. Each step invites you to uncover the beauty that lies just beyond. After the heat, you can get a respite by having some cold drinks or coffee available at a cafe located on the premises of the fort. You can stay till dusk to get a mesmerising view of sunset from such a height( a very popular place for enjoying sunsets).

View from Sajjangarh fort

City Palace showcases a breathtaking architectural masterpiece, perched on a hill and overlooking the serene Pichola Lake. But we missed the opportunity to explore this beauty since the Maharaja Arvind Singh Mewar had passed away that day, and the palace was closed as a mark of respect.

Another fascinating, not-to-miss spots are the lakes-scintillating, ethereal, magnanimous, and meditative- quite a romantic spot for couples who wish to search each other in the realm of golden sunsets bathing the silvery lakes. We went to Fateh Sagar Lake to soak in the calming view of the sunset. Standing under a small dome-shaped shed like those found in the palaces, a faint, cool breeze swayed my tresses over my tired face- I felt rejuvenated (a quick photo session was a must). We stayed there for quite a long time, enjoying chana bhel and masala chai- uff, what a flavour and what a taste- a moment that goes past in a jiffy!!

Fateh Sagar Lake

And then the next day we went for a boat ride at Lake Pichola. The experience was nothing less a magic. I felt like going back to the ages of rajas and maharajas- a majestic view of the City Palace transports you to a time which can be felt but not lived. I recorded a video trying to capture the experience, but couldn't...I've come to understand that some forms of beauty can only be truly appreciated by the naked eye; they elude the grasp of camera lenses and demand to be seen in their purest form.

Boating at Lake Pichola

We also sought blessings at Jagdish Temple- a quiet place where you can pray and sit for a while- a relaxing experience, a pause from otherwise hectic life.

As you gear yourself for a shopping spree, you will not be disheartened...Instead, the city has a lot to offer, not only in terms of variety but also in its artistic sensibility. As I went around different shops, I got to know how talented the artisans over there are- their art is a testament to their rich glory and resilience. I can vouch for their miniature painting if you ever think of buying any singular object to carry with you as a semblance of this place. Painted on cloth and then framed, they take days to complete a piece. A connoisseur of art, I bought quite a few pieces- they encompass religious themes, animals, birds, and a royal past which includes kings, queens, and princesses, which tells a tale of wars, processions, coronations, and courtly gestures. I am still in awe of their artistic finesse and craftsmanship. If you're looking for a budget-friendly option, fridge magnets are a wonderful choice. They eloquently express the sentiment of "atithi devo bhava" and add a touch of charm to your space. Another particularly charming option for women is the bangle. The designs are appealing, detailed, colourful, and add a touch of elegance to any outfit. You must buy to know that!!

At the end, I can say that Udaipur transcends its palaces, lakes, and sunsets. It speaks of a legacy shaped by hardship, softened by time, and immortalized in stone and water. A city that remembers and endures.

And don't forget me while you relive these experiences in person...

By Nandini Sengupta

@metaphors_of_life

*A cusped arch is a type of arch that has small rounded points or curves(called cusps) along the inside edge.